Fermentation in Practice

Fermentation in Practice: Traditional Techniques in Modern Restaurants

The New Nordic Cuisine (NNC) movement, exemplified by renowned restaurants, is often associated with meticulously crafted dishes, foraged ingredients, and hyper-local sourcing. Among these, fermentation plays a significant role, with chefs utilizing preserved vegetables, cured meats, and unique fermented beverages. But how do these traditional preservation techniques, particularly fermentation, fit into the daily operations of contemporary restaurants?

In our recent research, "New Nordic Cuisine in practice: Storage and preservation practices as a means for a resilient restaurant sector," we explored how Swedish restaurants apply fermentation and similar techniques. We aimed to understand if and how these practices could contribute to a more resilient and sustainable restaurant industry.

Why do chefs ferment?

While historically vital for food preservation, especially during meager Nordic winters, fermentation in modern NNC-inspired restaurants serves contemporary purposes. As one restaurant owner/chef noted, fermenting vegetables like fennel or green strawberries allows them to "become their best," gaining "another dimension" in flavor that other methods might not achieve.

In current restaurant practice, fermentation is primarily a tool for:

• Enhancing flavors:  Creating complex and unique taste profiles that contribute to a restaurant's culinary identity.
• Extending ingredient availability:  Enabling chefs to use seasonal, local produce beyond its typical harvest period, aligning with their gastronomic philosophy.
• Connecting with culinary heritage:  Reviving and reinterpreting historical food preparation methods, adding a layer of tradition to the dining experience.

Practical challenges in restaurant fermentation

Despite the interest in fermentation, its widespread integration into daily restaurant practices faces several practical hurdles:

1. Constraints of space and time:  Many modern restaurants, particularly those in urban environments, may not have the extensive storage facilities (like traditional root cellars) required for large-scale, long-term preservation. A busy summer café, for instance, ferments significant quantities of produce weekly due to limited space and rapid inventory turnover.
2. The need for specialized skills:  Effective fermentation requires specific knowledge and experience, often developed through hands-on practice. In the hospitality industry, where staff turnover can be high, maintaining and transferring this specialized knowledge presents an ongoing challenge. As one interviewee pointed out, changes in kitchen staff can lead to past preservation projects becoming unidentifiable.
3. Managing risks:  Fermentation is a natural process that isn't always entirely predictable. One chef explained, "You do not know how it will end up... It will also be financially difficult if you suddenly have to throw out half of the production." For larger operations, these risks are amplified. The executive chef of a banquet facility noted the potential for significant negative consequences if a fermentation process went wrong, impacting a large number of guests.
4. The prevailing "fresh food" norm: With efficient modern food supply chains providing daily deliveries, the perceived necessity for long-term food preservation within restaurants is often diminished. The focus tends to be on fresh ingredients.

Can fermentation contribute to restaurant sector resilience?

Despite these challenges, the ongoing use of fermentation, even if primarily for flavor, means valuable skills related to food preservation are being maintained within the restaurant sector. The question then becomes whether these practices could be expanded to contribute more broadly to food system resilience.

Our research suggests that while restaurants currently utilize fermentation mainly for gastronomic purposes, they possess the potential to play a role in a more resilient local food system. With skilled personnel and access to food, restaurants could, particularly in times of disruption, serve as important resources for preserving food and sharing related knowledge.

Realizing this potential would likely require:

• Increased emphasis on traditional skills:  Greater recognition and investment in training and retaining staff with preservation expertise.
• Consideration of infrastructure:  Exploring how restaurants might be supported with appropriate storage solutions for preserved goods.
• Rethinking preservation:  Shifting perspectives to see preserved foods not just as flavor enhancers but also as contributors to food security and sustainability.

Fermentation in contemporary NNC-inspired restaurants represents an intersection of tradition, innovation, and practical considerations. While currently driven largely by gastronomic goals, the skills and knowledge associated with these practices have potential broader applications. Understanding both the opportunities and challenges can inform how these traditional methods might contribute more significantly to a resilient food system.

This blog post is based on insights from the paper: Sundqvist, J., & Marshall, M. (2025). New Nordic Cuisine in practice: Storage and preservation practices as a means for a resilient restaurant sector. International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science, 40, 101193. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2025.101193